Tom's: A Local Refuge in a Lonely City
Text and Photos by Jessica Wade
Tom's restaurant is a classic Morningside Heights establishment with average food at reasonable prices. At first glance, that may be all you see. In a city that can sometimes be one of the world's loneliest, the unlikely tourist hotspot has become a refuge for locals.
Scott Manson, 54, moved to New York City from Harrisburg, Pennsylvania in 2006 just before the global financial crisis. A Seinfeld fan, he had seen Tom’s on TV, so decided to check out the diner. Shortly after, he was laid off from his job and New York City was grim.
"I knew no one in this city. The only cheap bite I could get was here, and I would sit at this exact booth. At a time when I felt like crap, at least I could walk in and have my coffee in my hand before I opened my mouth."
Scott Manson, a regular, enjoys his favorite warm apple pie with ice cream. Paper orders and an old cash register are part of the charm.
Addison Schoeman, a poet studying at Columbia University, says that despite the diner's reputation as a tourist hub, it’s really place for locals.
“Once they see you visit often, it's almost like you're accepted into this little community. But don't get me wrong; my heart and digestive system can't take it too regularly," he said.
Tom Glikas founded the restaurant in the 1940s, which is best known as the fictional Monk's Café in the television sitcom Seinfeld, where characters would regularly convene. Past local customers include politicians including former President Barack Obama when he lived in the area.
Jessica Nix, a graduate student at Columbia, reads the Columbia Daily Spectator while waiting for her to-go order. Photo Jessica Wade.
Mike McGowen sits at the counter with the daily special. The remains of a late afternoon family feast.
Benny, one of the three chefs at Tom's, has been behind the grill at the establishment for nearly 40 years. While the humble cook could retire, he continues to keep working because he says while he can cook for others and make them their regular favorites, this diner does as much for him as it does for its customers.
"There is a lot of history here, but you don't have to know it to enjoy Tom's. Just sit down and enjoy, preferably, one of my sandwiches," he said. The 78-year-old chef is best known for his sandwiches. Whether it be subs, grilled cheeses, or turkey clubs, the list is endless.
Addison Schoeman enjoying sausage and eggs.
Tom’s is one of an estimated 419 diners left across New York City, according to photographer Riley Arthur, who has visited nearly every diner in the five boroughs. While some shut their doors during the Covid-19 pandemic, many survived and stayed open, due to the endless support of local customers, who ordered takeout during harsh New York City lockdowns.
“Tom’s has given so much to me that it was my time to do what I could to help it stay afloat,” said Emmanuel Withers, a long-time Upper West Side resident.
Two waiters write up their checks as they prepare to finish their shifts.
One regular who does come for the food is Mike McGowen. The 31-year-old works in the New York State Department of Taxation and Finance and says he is always down for the daily special.
“I don’t even have to say anything to order. Where else can you do that? I always sit at the counter, and then my food is in front of me in less than five minutes. Tourists are always a little confused,” he said.
